Eiger Memories – Homage to my father
In the 1960s my dad, a passionate mountaineer was climbing some of the most difficult routes in the Alps, including first ascents. But there was one thing he couldn’t get out of his mind: Climbing the so far untouched Eiger Northface direct route. He prepared the expedition and brought together eight outstanding mountain climbers to join him. In February 1966 they were ready. They did plan to do it in two weeks but in the end because of persistent bad weather conditions they stayed in the face for 30 days. At the same time an English/American group of also excellent mountaineers was there as well going for this new route. A joint expedition would probably have been better but initially they started off in competition. Each group wanted to be first and no matter how bad the weather was they didn’t want to give up. And although they succeeded, it came to a dramatic end.
Back then two books were published telling the experiences during these 30 days in the Eiger North Face. My dad, Peter Haag and Jörg Lehne wrote: “Eiger, Kampf um die Direttissima” from the view of the German team. Peter Gillman and Dougal Haston wrote: “Eiger Direct” from the view of the English/American team. Peter Gillman is a journalist and author who during the climb was based at Kleine Scheidegg reporting to the Daily Telegraph about the progress of the climbers. He decided to rewrite the story together with his wife Leni and in July 2015 “Extreme Eiger” was published. In this book the events are told from the view of both parties.
In my childhood the Eiger North Face Expidition of my father had always been present. The book had an exposed spot in the book shelve. It was my bible. When I was little, I looked at the pictures again and again and later read it several times. To me the whole thing was very exciting, and I was fascinated by it and still am. Sadly my dad died young and for many years the Eiger faded into the background. But the book was to me his written heritage. I had thought that I’ve put behind the grief for my dad. But I realised that the grief for a loved person will always stay with you. During Peter Gillman’s research for Eiger Extreme things were brought into focus again and I came to know many facts about my dad’s life which I didn’t know before.
In March 2016 it was the 50th anniversary of the ascent. And as this story is part of my life, I decided to give it an artistic form.
I resided in Grindelwaldblick (a mountain chalet for skiers and back in 1966 base camp of the expedition) for the 30-day period from 24th February until 25th March, which back in 1966 the climbers spent in the North Face. For the thirty days of my stay, I made one lino print for each day, starting with black and only one white line, getting lighter and lighter until in the end only a white mountain line remains. I took one photo of the North Face and made a drawing each day. Also, I started drawing an illustrated diary about what I had experienced during that time and parallel what the mountaineers had experienced 50 years ago. It was a very special experience and I had lots of interesting encounters and conversations about mountains, life, death, politics, climate and of course the Eiger. Sometimes I asked myself why am I doing this? Why are we climbing mountains. Why are we drawing pictures. I guess it is out of curiosity. To search and find sense where there is no sense.
